Klenak, Serbia. Population 3,000. It’s a village like so many in the Vojvodina region of Serbia, just over an hour from Belgrade. In Klenak, everyone knows each other. And nearly everyone has a farm.
Right now, the farmers in Klenak have their eye on the wheat — it’s rattling with the wind and glistening in gold — signaling that it’s ready for harvest. I got to it before they did, snagging some springs of lavender from my mother-in-law’s garden to weave into my hair before running into the fields.